Geometric designs. Part 1. Triangles. Felted cowl neck top "Snowstorm".
The winter whirlwind continues: blizzards and snowstorms sing outside the window while we continue our experiments with wool in our cozy nest. Now, we are glad to present the new tutorials called “Geometric designs”.
Each of these lessons will be devoted to some geometric figure. On its basis, we will build a simple pattern, so that then using the long-known, but interesting decorating techniques, we’ll get a new fashionable silhouette.
Today we offer to your attention not usual tutorial with text and photos, but with short videos that allow you to understand the finest nuances of wool layout and felted process, and construction schemes of pattern and decorative snowflakes.
The first is a simple figure – a triangle, and our idea is a felted top “Snowstorm” with a draped cowl neck collar. The patterns is two acute-angled isosceles triangles: the base of the vest and the collar detail. They are directed at sharp angles to each other as shown in the diagram and form a single pattern.
The length of the base of the large triangle; its height (the length of the perpendicular dropped from the top to the base) is 130 cm; the length of the base of the collar part is 50 cm with the height of the triangle 70 cm. The line of intersection of these two figures is the neckline, its length is 30 cm.
Mark down from the neck the segments of 15 cm - they indicate the shoulder lines; then note another 25 cm: this is the depth of the armhole. The bending allowances are not provided on this area.
We have constructed a pattern for the size S and to obtain a larger pattern we propose to increase the base of the triangles sequentially, focusing on the length of the segment connecting the lower points of the armhole – it is the line of the chest girth. The length of the finished vest is about 55 cm from the middle of the back.
The new idea is a freeform top of a very thin, light felt fabric, forming soft folds. We mix two similar colors of a winter sky, with bright snowflakes, as if flying through us from a blizzard and snowstorm.
As an initial material for the snowflakes, we will prepare an unusual paper from viscose fibers. We need several sheets of parchment paper for baking and a warm gelatin solution in a plastic bottle with small holes in a cap as a glue.
Spread out viscose fibers evenly on the one half of a sheet. Moisten fibers with a gelatin solution, bend the sheet, iron and leave to dry. Remove the parchment. Viscose paper is ready - it bends well and retains all the properties of a paper. Gelatin washed away during felting process and the fibers become soft again.
Next, cut the squares of various sizes but not too small. Fold the pieces according to the scheme and cut out various kinds of snowflakes using the simplest templates. Do not complicate the pattern, because felted fibers will be slightly compressed and deformed.
We need about 120 grams (4 oz) of Australian merino wool of 18-19 micron and about 30 grams (1 oz) of viscose fibers. Thus, all the preparations are finished, and we proceed to felting.
Prepare viscose fibers with a small carder brush as shown in this short video.
Evenly spread out fibers on the template and moisten with a warm water.
Begin the wool layout from the additional strengthening layer along the open edges: top, bottom and the armhole.
This time we demonstrate an unusual way of wool layout. The basic idea is that the fibers are laid out in a chaotic manner, with lightweight weightless clouds. Take a small piece from the wool roving in the right hand and divide it into thin strands as shown in this video.
The allowance for bending is about 2-3 cm beyond the edges of the template except top, bottom and an armhole area. After finishing the layout, spread the snowflakes then moisten the wool with a warm soapy water, cover with mesh and manually rub.
Remove the mesh and rub around armhole, neck and bottom in a circular motion forming a smooth edge. Remove excess water with a towel. Try not to touch the allowances.
Turn over the template, spread viscose fibers, bend the allowances and continue the wool layout. Moisten the wool and rub through the mesh. Take a good look at the surface and cover the openings with thin wool strands. Fold the allowances to the back.
Continue to carefully rub the vest until it becomes tight in the template. Pay close attention to the side parts – they should not have any ripples.
Take off the template and continue intensive felting process by rubbing on a ribbed surface, rolling in different directions, tossing up and knead it like dough.
Rinse out in warm water then continue adding fresh soap. The top shrinks very fast, so no need to hurry – check the size from time to time.
Our vest is still semi-finished product, so we’ll fit it on the mannequin: tight the edges, form a collar, drape the folds. Felt fabric turns out very thin and flexible. Leave the vest to dry on shoulders or mannequin.
As a result, the top turned out light and airy, but warm and cozy at the same time; preserving the original geometric shape. Put on top of a warm sweater, this vest is perfect for a leisurely ski trip or for a first date at a skating rink.
We say goodbye until new spring lessons.